John's Europa 1986
A Journal of my 1986 trip to Europe: I visited 12 countries in Europe from August 19, 1986 to October 27. 1986...
THE TRIP STARTS
--In air -aug 19 m plane My aunt Mikie dropped my brother Jim and i
off at the train station where we took a train from Boston to New York. Jimmy was going to spend the first two weeks
with me and I was going alone the rest of the way. On the train we did some more trip planning since very little of
the itininery was set in stone. The train stopped in Manhattan so we had to work our way over to Jfk airport via
the subway. On the way we stopped by the Empire state building to see if we could get Jim a Eurail pass-but there was
a line at the travel agency we went to. We took a special six dollar airport subway.in time for our afternoon flight.
It was a chartered Sabena Airlines flight that took us between NYC and Brussels, Belgium. For whatever reason we couldn't sit
together on the plane. So we had to get together on occasion in the aisles. At one point the full moon was out in the sky-it
was lovely.
IN BELGIUM & THE NETHERLANDS AUGUST 1986
Netherlands aug 20w Amsterdam We arrived at the Brussels Airport ,
we exchanged a little money ,got some coffee, I got Eurail pass validated, and decided to take the train to Amsterdam.
The experiences in our first few minutes in Brussels were exotic. The train station was right below the air terminal.
I remember a travel poster on the train and townhouses along the route. We arrived Central station in Amsterdam, we
went over to a long line in the tourist office to book a room. They didn't book any B&B's so we stuck with booking
a more expensive hotel. I wish we had booked ahead. It was cool almost wintry that day. The hotel was a a reasonably
long distance from station- and we actually walked it ,which was a stupid thing to do on jet lag. I made some strange
decisions some times because I was on a limited budget.It was a typical smaller euro hotel. The man who ran it was not
overly friendly. Jimmy slept all evening .
Netherlands aug 21 t Amsterdam Jimmy barely made it the next morning
for breakfast-the next day we went to a bed & breakfast which wasted a lot of the time that we could have used touristing
. We actually had to buy a guidebook, (frommers) cos Jim had lost my Lets Go.We stayed at A Madam Schimochowa's who we
referred to by a lady named Ursula. Ursula was actually the person listed in the Frommers guide book. Just figuring
out the trams was hard-so I don't think we did so much that day. Although I loved Amsterdam -it could be a frustrating
place. There were scarcity of cheap places to buy groceries.Jimmy liked to go to the shops and restaurants -he could
get by without seeing the museums., A place like Amsterdam was particularly distinctive.
*Netherlands aug 22 f Amsterdam On Our last day in Amsterdam we went
to the zoo. We got there via bikes. We rented bikes at the railway station. Jimmy got pictures of me getting mauled
by goats at the petting zoo. We then took independent bike rides. Jimmy's bike did not work well and so he did not go
too far. I attempted to bike to South Flevoland -but only got as far as Diemen when it started to rain. I had to turn
back anyway,to meet up with Jim.. This was my first time biking in the Netherlands and it was just a fabulous place to
bike..I don't remember what we did that evening..I do know we had some laundry done and ate peanut butter and jelly
and pickles and onions.
Sliver of the Pompideu Center in Paris |
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An original photo by James Bernhardt |
IN FRANCE AUGUST 1986 France
aug 23 s Paris We got into Paris in the middle of the day...We had the not too fun experience of trying to find accommodations-Jimmy
wasn't feeling well. Just working the phones was troublesome. Paris had a preponderance of credit card phones and we
didn't have the cards for them-so decided to go search for accommodations by foot.(without our baggage) We still had trouble
-but ended up in hotel on the left bank-Near the Sorbonne and the Pantheon....
France aug 24 s Paris Sunday morning, I booked us in another cheaper
hotel.We stayed three days in the same fleabag hotel on the left bank.It was located atop a movie theater, I couldn't
afford to break my bare bones budget by staying at real hotels .It was rainy...That day or the next after we visited the Louvre,
cos it was the day that admission was free. Supposedly we also went to Rodin Museum one of the better museums we visited.My
wallet was lost or stolen in a pet store. (why were browsing in a pet store in Paris?)I lost something like 200 dollars
in currency (American, French, and Belgian) France aug 25 m Paris On this day we walked over to Notre Dame
and the Pompeidiu Center, something that I would repeat on October 22. France aug 26 t Paris We went to the
Eiffel Tower in the evening...I think we went there twice.....
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Pont Butin, Geneva |
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pont butin, geneva |
In SWITZERLAND AUGUST 1986
Switz. aug 27 w Geneva Jim was only going to be in Europe for two weeks,
which meant that we couldn't travel too great a distance on his leg of the journey, so we decided not to go to Switzerland instead
of Scandinavia. In a effort to save scarce funds we stayed in a actual youth hostel for the first time. It was in what
appeared to be a old school. Everything was painted a sickly green. Geneva was a pretty town, though there was not much
to see.
Switz. aug 28 t Geneva I took a long walk along the river and to the
Pont Butin bridge which was on the Rhone . Coming back I went by by a field-and by a cemertary (cimitiere
de Saint-georges) and it's associated crematorium along the way. I also visited the Rousseau museum, the guide
started to speak French and for some reason I let him till he realized I didn't understand him..
Switz. aug 29 f Zurich The trip on the train from Geneva to Zurich was
pleasantly pleasant-scenically scenic. In Zurich we stayed at newer hostel slightly on the right side of the lake.
*Switz. aug 30 s Zurich Strangely,
I went to a pool (trying to justify bringing my bathing suit).Cool pool design well the locker room at least. Yes, -there
wasn't much to see in Zurich. I went to one end of the city to a overlook-where i talked with a bird on a ledge. It
was one of those places I saw from a distance and said-"oh hey why don't I go there". Jim cooked dinner for us in the member
kitchen. I Climbed Utelberg a foothill on the lower end of the city. It was the only mountain path that i have been
on that had streetlights. Somehow I ended up taking a bus to get back to the hostel.Ultimately, we didn't do anything in
the real Alps but we didn't have much time or money. I Didn't really climb that many hills -the limitations of traveling
mainly in cities.
various aug 31 s Lucerne/night train- We started the morning in Zurich
-We played Chess three foot pieces at the hostel. Jim took a picture of us. We took something of a day trip to Lucerne,
one of the prettier Swiss cities. Like the other two cities, Lucerne was built on a river on the corner of a lake. There
was a pretty covered bridge crossing the river.In the afternoon We got separated by mistake.I spent much of the afternoon
looking for Jim.How we found each other is beyond me... At one point I sat by Lake Lucerne and wrote a poem..I went to church
in the late afternoon there. We went to dinner at the Massengill restaurant-and then somehow found our way on the night
train to Brussels. The night train journey was rough. It seemed as if we might have gone through Luxembourg,but I doubt
it.
A hostel courtyard in Zurich |
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Photo by James Bernhardt |
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The covered bridge in Lucerne, Switzerland |
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IN BELGIUM/ HOLLAND/ GERMANY & DENMARK
September 1986
Belgium sep 1 mon Brussels We found our way sleepily to the modern Brussels
hostel. It was a 1980's building attractively situated next to a church.Jimmy was sleepy or sick during much the trip. We
went to the Grand Place-Jim looked for lace for the Spillanes. We had dinner at some restaurant. Brussels had some cool
fudge confections.
Netherlands sep 2 t amersfort THIS WAS THE DAY JIM RETURNED HOME. Jim
and I switched our packs-I took Jim's backpack and he took my red bag back home. I also had a second blue bag-that I used
to drag around pamphlets and raincoats etc. My packing job left something to be desired. It isn't easy to tool around
Europe for two months without a few things. We went to Brussels airport-from there Jim went back to NYC. At that point I
was alone-Thousands of miles away from anybody I knew for this first time in my life. I wanted to go back to Amsterdam
to do some more biking, but when I got there i found that it was hard to book a spot in a hostel-so I decided to go
outside of town. I ended up spending two days in Amersfoort. Going from place to place can be time consuming, by the
time I was settled in Amersfoort most of the day was gone. The hostel in Amersfoort was a bit out of the way. The hostel
was overrun by a school group- I spent part of my evening watching the film they were watching. This was my first experience
with a coed hostel dorm.
*Netherlands sep 3 w amersfort This was the day of my fabulous bike
journey from Amersfoort to Alesmere. Annoyingly ,I didn't rent my bike till the middle of the day. It was a sunny afternoon. I
biked through Eemes, Baarn and Hilversum. At one point in Eemnes I stopped at a farm in Eemes and talked with the animals
while looking across a beautiful farm field. Since, Holland is flat there would often be long long views of the horizon,
At one point I tried to bike along a small stretch of highway-cos that was the only quick way to Flevoland-but that proved
unworkable and so I followed along through the Gooi up past Naarden to the the northeastern bridge between the mainland
and Flevoland. By the time I had gotten to Flevoland it was getting later in the day, and it was getting overcast, and
i was having problems with one of my peddles and so decided to turn around . I decided once I got into Bussum to take the train the
rest of the way back to Amersfoort. This journey and the prior August 22 bike jaunt around Amsterdam- made a tremendous
impact on me. But for some reason, I went the next day to Scandinavia, and although I returned to the Netherlands in
late September-I did not do any biking in September. After I got home I had a great desire to return to Holland and do
a independent bike tour, but I did not return for twelve years .
various-sep 4 t night train On Thursday morning I took the train from
Amsterdam to Copenhagen, a train that would ultimately lead to Stockholm. The journey doesn't seem like it should take
that long -but it does...Sept 4 marked the first time I had visited Germany or Denmark. It takes nearly 24 hours to get
from Amsterdam to Stockholm on the train,I believe I stopped at Hamburg on my way to Copenhagen....Annoyingly, at one
point along the journey I was stopped by two undercover German custom police who wanted to search my bags for drugs-perhaps
because I came from Amsterdam. I asked them to get the conductor -since I wanted to confirm they were legit. I have two
other distinctive memories of this leg of the journey. One, was crop burning in the fields in Denmark, the other was
sitting on the train in empty compartment sort of planning my trip. I only had a limited amount of money.I only had
about 800 to 1000 dollars to cover the remaining 45 days , but I was due to receive some money from Jim. I got to Copenhagen
in the evening. Strangely the train took a ferry that crossed to the east of the Danish mainland. With the construction
of bridges in the 1990's where some of ferries used to be- there is no longer the necessity to use these ferries. On
the overnight journey to Stockholm-I was closeted in a crowded compartment with four woman and strange young bald man.
Three of the woman were light haired Finns. One was middle aged and the other two were younger-one had a fascinating
lappish look about her. The three ladies I saw later in the Stockholm train station and I saw the bald guy in town.
IN SWEDEN September 1986
Sweden sep 5 f Stockholm As often was the case, I was unable
to book a space in any of the official hostels. I ended up staying at the Zinkin Student Hotel. This was the only accommodation
that ended up returning to in 1998. It was in Sodermalm-South of the Center of the town.-I took Stockholm's Tunnelbana to
get there. The Stockholm subway was interesting and colorful.I also Visited the Katrina Elevator in Sodermalm as well as
a church. It soon became rainy and dreary... I took some pictures at a park near the hostel-and ended up getting duck
dung on my sweater.... Sweden sep 6 s Stockholm Attempted rather strangely to visit ABBA's offices but they were
not located in Baldersgaten I had forgotten about ABBA's offices being moved.I suppose I got to rather dull excursion
to the University Section of town out of it.It was kind of silly to go there anyway. On this day in Horterget .my camera
was stolen, I also bought some Lp records-it was just amazing to look in the stores with all these ABBA related records
that I had never see, Supposedly this day I also walked over to Gamla Stan,the old section of Stockholm. Sweden
sep 7 s Stockholm I went to Skansen and to Grona Lund. Skansen had old structures moved to the site such as farm
structures and freaky looking churches. For entertainment there was some Swedish folk dancing, Grona Lund is an amusement
park. These were located in the East side of town on the peninsula of Djuragarden. So this would be the most eastern place
I had gone in the world. various sep 8 m night train I visited Stockholm City Hall and found where out where
Polar Music.was. I left Sweden kind of sooner than expected-I decided to devote some time to traveling the railroads
of Norway. With my unlimited Eurail Youth pass it was economical to spend a lot of time on the train. I would save on three
nights of accommodations in the next eight days. * * * *
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Grefsen train station |
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Oslo Haraldshiem in Grefsen |
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IN NORWAY SEPTEMBER 1986
Norway sep 9 t Oslo I booked into the Grefsen Heraldsheim (Oslo's hostel)
which was located a few miles from the city center. However, I took the wrong train to get there. I ended up somewhere
in the countryside well to a place called Arnes., indeed at one point the passengers on the train were transferred to
a bus, eventually -I realized I was not on the proper line, and so I headed back to Oslo, to find the correct line.
When I got to the hostel -I spent some time sitting on the hill outside overlooking the city.. Norway sep 10 w Oslo Went
into town tried to go parliament they were closed, and so went to Military Museum. I took a boat across Oslo harbor
to the Bygdoy peninsula. I visited the Fram Museum, but chose to forgo the Kon-tiki Museum. I walked up the Bygdoy peninsula
back to the closest railway station,but , I forgot to go by the Vigland Park, a park with statues by famous Norwegian sculpture which
was sort of on the way. Norway sep 11 t Trondheim I got into Trondheim in the early evening after a long train
journey from Oslo. Somehow I was able to stay at the hostel there. The Oslo and Trondheim hostel blur together in
my mind. Both had windowed lounge areas near their respective entrances. I didn't stay long in Trondheim-it was the
only place that I slept in that i did not stay long enough to see some of the place. I saw some of the harbor-I remember
the red boat sheds and I saw a beautiful view of the fjord from the high overlook of where the hostel was located. Norway
sep 12 f Mo I rana
I Arrived in Mo I Rana in the afternoon after a long train ride from Trondheim.
The visitor office was closed. Mo is a small town located off fjord about 100 miles south of the Artic Circle. It's just
a stop along the train line along the way to the Bodo. I went there cos there was hostel located there. It was small
town with a ore factory which for some reason had a certain fascination for me ,even though i really didn't have much
a chance to see anything-the only real site to see was a nearby glacier. Glaciers are good things but i didn't have the
money or the time to see them. The place was just far and away... off the beaten track. Warmer than expected and sunnier.
I had dinner at some place in town, and i walked over to a subdivision and a ski-lift..In the evening i stayed in a
little cabin- the regular hostel building's accommodations were closed for renovations. Being in the little cabin was somehow
liberating...
Norway sep 13 s night train Saturday I walked through town while waiting
for the train to Bodo. I walked through the town by a dirt road, a kid playing drums ,a fern forest, by a town common...
and near the water... The train then went up the coast to Bodo via the Artic circle. I got to Bodo in the late afternoon.
The town had some fascinating rock patterns. I walked around town for a couple hours whilst waiting for the long overnight
return journey to Trondheim.
Norway sep 14 s Oslo I arrived in Trondheim in the morning, but did
not stay. I returned to Oslo after a day spent traveling back from Trondheim. I returned once again to Oslo's hostel.
I recall running into a fellow traveler who noticed how well acquainted i was with the route to the hostel.. I remember
going to a small store near the hostel and buying TAB. You could only get TAB in Norway or Ireland. By 1998 you could only
get TAB in Norway-and it tasted like Diet Coke. various countries sep 15 m night train I started
the morning in Oslo-I think it was early in the morning-it felt like a normal working day in the downtown-they were
reconstructing part of the train station-lots of jackhammers . One of the vendors in the new section of the station
was playing Agnetha Faltskog's -"The Angels Cry" which was on album I had bought in Stockholm but not heard,. On the
way South I stopped in Goteborg, Sweden -whilst waiting for train-but didn't buy anything. I ended the day somewhere in
Denmark. I recall going to the top of one of the Kattgatt ferry boats and dropping a coin.
A church in Bodo , Norway |
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View of Bodo at night |
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IN GERMANY SEPTEMBER 1986
Germany sep 16 t Koln I had no great affection for Germany, the people
were not friendly and the scenery was had no particular appeal to me. But we had not visited there in 1975 and so
it was another new country to see.,a country that happened to be on the way. On this day I visited Koln's Cathedral and
a cool art Museum. The hostel in Koln was actually located on the other side of the river in Deutz near a Ford motor
plant. Germany sep 17 w Munich This day I traveled from Koln to Munich. I took an attractive, newer German
train on a line that parallel the Rhine much of the way. The Rhine had little castles on hills along the river.At one point
I found somebody's jewelry and was given a reward by the lady who lost it. I stayed at a student hotel....I visited
Olympic Park. At night I swam in the pool in the basement of the student hotel.
abba the albums
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